Behind the vine

Philine Isabelle Dienger - Az. Agr. Philine Isabelle - Barolo, Italy

When do you think you fell in love with wine, enough to make a career of it?

My father was into wine so it was always prominent at home. However, my decision to step into viticulture wasn't from a wine background, it was from cultural background. I went to university to study Politics, but quit after 3 semesters. I had half an idea that agriculture could be my thing and I took a season to jump into viticulture because I felt it was a noble vocation - an agricultural job that connects you to a product that is incredibly expressive.

I didn’t go back to school and instead worked at Weingut Odinstal, a winery that was very small (only 5hca), biodynamic, and I worked there for a year and then started my professional rotation. I liked every aspect of winemaking - working in agriculture, being outside, as well as selling to people and working with various markets.

What story does your wine tell?

I want people to experience the wine in three dimensions. I've been working in viticulture for 12 years. Everything I've done and learnt condenses to right now. My approach to this region - a region that is driven by tradition - is to get you to taste today and yesterday combined - tradition and reflection. There are small details that I reflect from the region’s tradition but I’m also one of only a handful of people using biodynamic viticulture in this area.

I’m very inspired by Japanese craftsmanship. I believe that the sum of all the small parts makes a masterpiece. I’ve set up a structure that is very small that I can handle myself. I make 120 decisions every year that can feel trivial, but I want to dedicate myself with an open heart and a clear mind to every decision. It’s our duty to hold these vines and grapes in the most perfect form of their being. Nebbiolo is a tough grape. It can be difficult to understand and complex in its expression. It's not one-dimensional - it's incredible. I want to make a masterpiece Barolo with a drop of Japanese craftsmanship so that people feel good to drink it and step into it.

What misconceptions about wine do you think people should forget?

You can approach wines in two different ways: as a joyful beverage with enjoyable, superficial qualities (like someone would listen to music driving cars), but you can also educate yourself deeply and entirely, if you want to step into further dimensions. I think people have the image that only the second way is right, so people get intimidated when they have to think of words or expressions with wine.

Wine is a cultivation of your senses and learning and cultivating senses is a very important mission for humans, but when you decide to stay on the "joyful", more superficial parts of wine don't feel inferior about it! It's equally right to do so!

What great things about wine do you think people should remember?

I think what’s incredible about wine is that we're dealing with a plant that mankind has cultivated for over 2000 years. We have a lot of Christian metaphors with grape vines and wine, so there is something that's always attracted mankind to interact with this plant. We only achieve this deep, historical connection with with grain and grape vines. There's a cultural impulse in this connection that I could not dare to grasp or understand.

Personally, I find there is something very beautiful about being able to sharpen your senses and educate yourself so that you understand all of the nuances in wine. The coloration, the plants, the interactions in nature. It's a beautiful natural and world-accepting attitude and ability.

What is a piece of advice you would give to a woman interested in breaking into the wine world?

If you want to work in cultivation, it's physically a very tough profession. You'll have to work out every day!

Where can women find your wine?

Visit Barolo! I work with local enotecas such as Enoteca del Ponte, Il Vinoso, Le Mura di San Rocco. As well as local restaurants such as Drogheria di Langa, Il Centro di Priocca, More e Macine, La Fontanazza, Vineria Sociale, L’Aromatario. In the UK I'll start to be listed in Noble Rot, in Spain I’ll be in Asador Etxebarri.

Who is a women in wine you think everyone should know about?

I really think everyone should know about someone I admire both personally and professionally: Victoria Torres. She makes wine on the Canary Islands and she is the perfect person for this area that needs to get back to it’s natural state.