Behind the vine

Julia Hoyle - Hosmer Winery - Finger Lakes, New York, USA

When do you think you fell in love with wine, enough to make a career of it?

When I was an undergraduate student in Geneva, NY I opened up a 2005 Reserve Cabernet Franc from Fox Run Vineyards (Seneca Lake, Finger Lakes) that completely blew me away. I grew up in a Riesling household, was somewhat familiar with wine, but I had my "a-ha" moment in 2009.

By the end of my undergraduate studies in 2011 (BA in French & Francophone Studies and Women's Studies), I was feeling the pull of the industry, although not yet sure where I would fit in. I took a couple of years to work and travel abroad in the Francophone world, returning to cellar work between jobs. I pursued full-time cellar work in 2013.

I am trained by experience. I have had fantastic mentors that taught me much of what I know, but they also taught me to always try new things. It is easy to get set in your ways and some of my most exciting wines have come about when I have tried something new in the cellar. The Finger Lakes region is such a gem because it is relatively young, which means that this region is always trialing a new grape varietal (Will it survive the winter? Will it get ripe enough?) and the wine portfolios of the wineries are not stagnant. There is a lot of room for trying new things, the excitement is palpable!

What story does your wine tell?

I have the great fortune of working with 100% estate grown fruit from the Hosmer property (Patrician Verona Vineyard). I try to keep the wines I work on well balanced from all angles. I do not want a wine to seem too oaky, too sweet, overly tannic, too high in alcohol, etc. I let balance drive my winemaking while making calculated decisions about new techniques that I use around the cellar, whether that be new equipment or yeast strains.

The Hosmer's have been growing grapes for nearly fifty years, as such, the wines I work on reflect the necessary creative tension of lessons learned over fifty years balanced by ushering in new ideas. As with anything in life, it can be easy to follow trends instead of challenging yourself to find your conviction and in this case, your [own] style of wine making. I often reflect on the quote, "Sooner or later, everything old is new again". Everything cycles back around and this is true for winemaking as well.

What misconceptions about wine do you think people should forget?

There is no one "correct" way to understand and interact with wine. Wine is informed by experience, and no two persons have the same experience.

It is also perfectly valid to not enjoy a wine that everyone else in the room is raving about. You do not need to rain on their parade, but do not feel bad that you are not having the same experience.

What great things about wine do you think people should remember?

Wines are best enjoyed while sharing a space, meal, and laugh with other people. Wines are about pleasure, and that should be celebrated.

What is a piece of advice you would give to a woman interested in breaking into the wine world?

Carry a notebook. Imposter syndrome is very real and having a place to jot down notes and thoughts can be the confidence boost that you need on a rough day. If you write something down, it is ready to reference later, and you will be grateful for that scribble some day.

Where can women find your wine?

For residents of the US, wines can be purchased directly through Hosmer Winery, we ship to most states.

Who is a women in wine you think everyone should know about?

Louisa Rose, Chief Winemaker for Yalumba Winery in the Barossa Valley, South Australia. I was lucky enough to work under her for a vintage (2015). She is both a fountain of knowledge and a brilliant winemaker.